Another trip with the Philistines

Funny thing about pre planned activities — sometimes they are great and sometimes just ok. But there are always surprises that turn out to be the thing you like best or the things that you’ll remember. Troy definitely falls into the “ok” category. It was fun to climb up into the fake Trojan horse, fun to actually see an archaeological dig in progress, and… well, that’s about it. Turns out that we aren’t all that interested in ancient ruins or museums full of old pottery. But we got  some pictures anyway. 

When we finally convinced our guide that we really and truly had seen enough, we said our goodbyes and left with our driver for the 5 hour drive to the resort town of Kusadasi. The best thing about that drive was the time alone to bury our noses into our phones, kickback, and doze. Almost equally wonderful was the appearance of the Golden Arches. Since neither of us enjoy Turkish food, the familiar taste of quarter pounders and fries was bliss. 

Anyway, we had a great surprise when we arrived at our resort hotel — we are in a suite, with a sea view, for 3 whole nights. Two good restaurants  several bars, and laundry service; who could ask for anything more? Turns out we could. The first night was so cold that we couldn’t sleep. One little thin blanket that barely covered us, but on the plus side, since we were too cold to sleep, we were awake at 4am and able to watch the live streaming of the debate. Of course, by the time we were picked up for our first excursion, we were exhausted. And it was pouring down rain. And we were headed for a small mountain village for a Turkish breakfast (yay). Once we got out of the car, we had a long, long climb up very slick rocky streets to get to the restaurant and of course my feet slipped and down I went. But once we arrived we had a very pleasant view of the village and a loaded table. But, once again I didn’t really feel like eating much. That’s our new guide on the right and our driver on the left— terrific guys.

   

Next on our scheduled list was a brief stop at a Caravanserai, the “hotels” used by the caravans on the old trading routes. People upstairs, animals downstairs. Interesting, quick to look at, but not much like James Michener’s description in Caravans. But here is where the first serendipity came in. Back in Istanbul, in the Grand Market, I spotted an etched copper plate, which was the main craft item that I wanted to get. I didn’t buy it and later realized that I would likely not have another chance. Even my current guide told me that those plates were unlikely to be found in any of the other places on our itinerary. 

To my great surprise next door to the Caravanserai, was the “Oriental Market”, but the shops were full of textiles, leather goods, fake watches and carpets. And then we spotted it. A third generation store selling ceramics, lamps, and etched copper plates! They escorted me upstairs, sat me down on a sofa, offered me tea or soda, and proceeded to bring out all their copper plates. And then they just “visited”. Turns out they have a brother operating a branch in Naples, Florida! As we paid for my plate, I spotted an evil eye to add to my purchases, but they insisted that it was a gift from them and after hugs and a hand kiss, we were on our way; but we left feeling like we had new friends. Now that’s customer service!

Everywhere you go in Turkey, you see the Hamam— the Turkish bath. The more I saw them, the more I wanted one. So as soon as we returned to the hotel, I made a reservation for what has to be the most unusual … and relaxing experience I’m likely to ever have. In the Hamam, men are separated from the women and you can choose either a communal bath or private. I imagine, like me, most tourists choose the private. So it starts with undressing and wrapping in a big towel in the room where I later had a massage, foot reflexology, and a facial masque. But before that I was led past the communal room with its giant round marble table? bed?? Whatever. Then past a small pool, again made of marble, and then into your private steam room. One small and one larger marble table await. Towel gone and lying flat on the slab and enjoying the steam when the bath part starts. From a large fountain constantly filling with very warm water, your attendant scoops pan fulls and pours them over you. It’s just an indescribable sensation. After you are fully wet, she puts on a mitten made with something rough, scrubs and exfoliates you. Rinse and repeat on your other side. That too was a very interesting sensation. After all that dead skin is rinsed away, the next surprise happens. You are entirely covered in foamy soap bubbles, just like you used to do in the bathtub when you were a little kid. Not only is the complete coverage in bubbles a strange and wonderful new sensation, the foam massage that comes next is even more incredible. You are soft and slippery from the soap bubbles, and  warm from the steam and warm water. Once you are finally rinsed off, she shampoos your hair. And all this time I’m thinking, “this is what life was like in the harem! Where do I sign up?”

Ultimately you end up back in the original room  with a regular oil massage, etc, but everything comes to an end and back you go to your room for a nap. 

A communal Hamam